Wrongsiders

For those who are unfamiliar with the place, the centre of Brussels is very compact and clearly-defined, in the shape of an elongated pentagon, about 3km long by 2km across. It is surrounded by a dual carriageway, the inner ring or petite ceinture. Around this are ranged the other Communes, 19 in all, which make up the city.

The main axes run roughly Northeast-Southwest: the railway, which is underground through most of the centre; what used to be the main shopping thoroughfare, now very much gone to seed; and the Canal, which runs along one side of the pentagon. Half the city, including all the centre, lies on the Southeastern side of the Canal

As far as expats are concerned, and probably many native Bruxellois, the part of the city beyond the Canal is unexplored territory. They whizz through it (mostly under it) on their way to the Coast, and they may tentatively venture into it to visit the Atomium and the amenities that surround it in the Heysel complex, like the National Stadium, the Exhibition Centre and the big cinema complex there. But live there? No way.

I’d hazard a guess that, of the Anglophone expats in Brussels and the surrounding areas, less than 5% live on the ‘wrong side’ of the Canal. The Bulletin, the weekly magazine that caters to this market, will have upwards of 100 ads for accommodation in each issue, of which maybe 2 will be for the unfashionable bit.

This vast majority don’t know what they’re missing. The ‘wrong side’ can be endlessly invigorating and surprising. I’ve lived there 16 years, and I’m continually making pleasant discoveries. Maybe I’ll post them from time to time.